In some areas of the world, we’re starting to cozy up for winter in plush pullovers and sustainable blankets made of fleece. As one of the most popular (and comfortable) fabrics around, we likely all know what fleece feels like—but what is fleece fabric?

Not to ruin your favorite plush things, but in short, it’s plastic, and as the world is becoming increasingly aware of the impact of plastic-based fabrics, fleece is on the receiving end of some (warranted) flack for its petrochemical beginnings.

Join us as we suss out one of the key players in our winter wardrobes and answer the questions: is fleece bad for the environment, and if so, does it have to be?

Contents: What Is Fleece Material?

  1. Is Fleece Polyester? Jump to section
  2. What Is Fleece Used For? Jump to section
  3. Is Fleece Sustainable? Jump to section
  4. Pros & Cons Of Fleece Jump to section
  5. How To Care For Fleece Jump to section
  6. Brands Using Recycled Fleece Fabric Jump to section

Is Fleece Polyester?

Many people who think of fleece are quick to assume that it’s made of sheep’s wool and thus think fleece is a natural fiberand indeed it is meant to mimic that, well, fleecey feel. In fact, the word ‘fleece’ was originally used to describe sheepskin (hence the Golden Fleece of Greek mythology).

However, in the modern era, most fleece is synthetic and generally created using petroleum-derived polyester—the #1 type of plastic polyethylene terephthalate (PET), to be exact. It’s the exact same stuff as most single use plastic bottles, which is why most recycled fleece fabric is a polyester made from recycled plastic bottles.

How Is Fleece Made?

The process of making polyester fleece can vary depending on the type of fiber used, but here’s the most common type of fleece made of polyester.

  1. Extrusion: Polyester pellets are melted down to form a viscous liquid.
  2. Spinning: The molten polyester is forced through tiny holes in a spinneret to create long, thin filaments.
  3. Cooling: The filaments are rapidly cooled and solidified, creating a network of fine fibers.
  4. Crimping: These fibers are crimped or texturized to give them a fluffy, soft texture.
  5. Bonding: The fibers are bonded together through heat and pressure to form a fabric. This bonding process can be done through methods like needle punching or through the use of adhesives.
  6. Finishing: The fabric is finished by cutting, shearing, and sometimes brushing the surface to create the characteristic softness of fleece.

What Is Fleece Used For?

Fleece is used in anything and everything cozy. designed to be soft, snug, and insulating, chances are there will be some fleece involved.

Specifically, you’ll find fleece in winter jackets (often as a liner for those with a more weather resistant exterior), sweaters, thermal base layers, sustainable sweatpants, winter accessories, and blankets.

Speaking of blankets, fleece is actually just a blanket term for the many different types of similar fabric, all of which are made with slightly different types of fibers and used in different ways. Let’s touch on each of the types of fleece (literally and proverbially).

Polar Fleece Fabric

Polar fleece fabric is generally what we think of when we think of “fleece.” It’s breathable, soft, durable, and designed to keep you exceptionally warm by incorporating air pockets between the polyester fibers that help to trap body heat. It’s commonly found in sustainable outdoor clothing for cold-weather adventures.

Microfleece Fabric

Microfleece is a thinner, lighter version of polar fleece, weighing about 200 grams per square meter (gsm) or less. It may not be as warm as other types of fleece, but micro fleece is one of the best options in terms of breathability. For that reason, it’s commonly found in sweaters, shirts, base layers, lightweight jackets, throw blankets, and bathrobes.

Sherpa Fleece Fabric

On the other end of the thickness spectrum, we have sherpa fleece, or blizzard fleece. Often referred to as a “high pile” fleece, this thick fabric resembles wool more than standard fleece. Patagonia may have named any of their sherpa fleece fabrics “woolyester fleece”, but it’s still counted among synthetic fabrics.

This stuff will keep you warm and, as such, it’s commonly found as a lining in sustainable coats.

Berber Fleece Fabric

If you’ve ever seen fleece that appears to be nubby, you’re likely looking at berber fleece (no, it has nothing to do with Berbers from North Africa). Berber fleece was designed with a fur-like texture to keep you warm and insulated without packing on a lot of extra weight.

Excellent for high-performance athletic garments berber fleece helps to wick moisture away and is commonly found in coat liners, vests, socks, sustainable beanies, and other wintertime apparel.

French Terry Fleece Fabric

French terry fleece is a lightweight form of fleece. Instead of being fluffy, it looks woven, is absorbent, and repels moisture.

It’s also not made of 100% polyester fibers as most other fleece types, but is instead typically made of a rayon fabric and polyester or polyester and spandex blend. New sustainable alternatives, however, manage to mimic the French Terry feel using a number of different blends of organic cotton, soy, and bamboo.

Coral Fleece Fabric

Coral fleece, sometimes called raschel fleece, is another high pile fleece that’s not quite as puffy as sherpa fleece but not as tight-knit as french terry fleece. In fact, it’s almost like a silky faux fur, despite featuring the same PET construction.

Coral fleece is very soft, pill resistant, and generally ends up in more expensive fleece jackets, shirts, blankets, and baby items.

Is Fleece Sustainable?

If you’re buying fleece, chances are it was made using non-renewable resources. Many times, it’s also coated in a chemical material to keep it water-resistant and windproof, too. Yikes.

Yet surprisingly, the fact that fleece is plastic can actually be a good thing for momma earth, provided it’s sourced responsibly. You see, fleece may be made of plastic, but it doesn’t have to be NEW plastic.

Remember how we mentioned it’s the same thing as plastic bottles? Recently, recycled fleece fabrics have actually been making fleece from recycled plastics like recycled plastic bottles This reduces landfill waste, decreases virgin petroleum mining, AND makes for a more affordable product. Even better if that recycled fleece jacket is second hand, too!

Other versions of eco-friendly fleece include those french terry fleece blends made from bamboo fabric or organically-grown cotton fleece fabric blends.

Pros & Cons Of Fleece

Advantages Of Fleece Fabric

Fleece’s ability to keep us warm (second only to wool, but, advantageously, fleece is vegan) is its greatest asset, which is why it’s one of the more sought after winter fabrics. Its unmatched comfort and plushness is a close second in the Pro column. Imagine the texture of yarn with the softness of cotton and you’ve got fleece.

But you may start to get a little sweaty under those fleece layers, because while fleece is moisture-wicking to an extent, it’s not as effective at it as other performance weaves of polyester. Nor is fleece as breathable.

From a sustainability perspective, fleece is incredibly durable, it can withstand many cold winter seasons and if manufactured using 100% recycled materials, it really can be an eco-friendly clothing choice.

Disadvantages Of Fleece Fabric

While it’s possible to make fleece out of fully recycled PET, eco fleece companies doing so are still vastly outnumbered by those that aren’t. And (recycled or not) the simple fact with synthetic fabrics is that they don’t biodegrade. Period. This makes it all the more important to temper our fleece consumption and be extra mindful about its end of life outcome.

They’ve also been associated with microplastics in our waterways. Each time a fleece garment is washed, it can release up to 1,900 bits of plastic into water ecosystems. These can be avoided by using a microplastic catching wash bag like the Guppy Friend.

Despite its durability, fleece is also prone to pilling, meaning those annoying little balls on the fabric’s surface will eventually turn up. They not only make a garment look dingy, but can eventually lead to wearing through.

While fleece does a superb job at keeping wearers warm—sometimes too warm. Fleece is highly flammable (it’s oil!). As such, many countries require it be treated with chemical flame retardants that aren’t great for the environment (or our bodies). Lose, lose.

So is fleece toxic?

Possibly. Anything made from plastic could technically contain bisphenol-A, which has been linked to all sorts of reproductive and other health disorders. And while reputable companies like Patagonia and LL Bean offer fleece that’s been tested as being free from BPA, there’s no guarantee of this when buying from cheaper, less transparent brands.

How To Care For Fleece

Fleece may be durable when wearing during your favorite winter adventure, but, without proper care, it can be damaged easily.

When washing fleece clothing, bear in mind that friction and heat are not good for fleece. Wash your favorite fleece pullover in a Guppy Friend (to catch microfibers) in cold water, avoiding bleach and fabric softener. To reduce static, try some fabric softener alternatives instead.

Hang drying is preferred, but if you must dry, use the lowest setting. Though fleece won’t shrink, it can melt—so keep it far away from an iron, too.

Brands Using Recycled Fleece Fabric

A bunch of brands have started bundling up with sustainable fleece. In fact, Patagonia began using recycled fleece fabric way back in 1993 (before eco-friendly was even cool!). Today, all their polyester fleece is recycled, from their sweater-mimicking Better Sweater fleece line to their ultra classic and colorful Synchilla fleece collection.

They’ve since been joined by a number of other companies, including prAna, tentree, Toad&Co, and Girlfriend Collective.

Be on the lookout for any brand that uses Polartec® fleece, too. This supplier of fleece fabric has been increasing the amount of recycled material and recently committed to 100% recycled material across all types of fleece they manufacture.